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Sunday, December 26, 2010

Let's talk Oils! Part 2: Essential Oil: Lavender and Carrier Oil: Grape seed

December 26, 2010

Hello, Hello, Hello!

In my last post I talked about the essential oil Eucalyptus and the carrier oil Avocado. If your thinking that the intro to this blog looks similar don't think your crazy because it is! I basically copied the intro from that post to this post to go over the basics of what an essential and carrier oil are so please feel free to skip to the good parts!

Doing some research and I wanted to buy some essential oils (An essential oil is a liquid that is generally distilled from leaves, stems, flowers, bark, roots, or other elements of a plant. Essential oils don't really have oily feeling. Essential oils are highly concentrated and a little goes ways)

I found an an essential oil set on Amazon for $19.95 and it includes: Eucalyptus, Lavender, Lemongrass, Peppermint, Sweet Orange & Tea Tree. Which I think is perfect because I am a still learning and going through my T&E(Trial and Error) stage.

So from what I gather you want to add an essential oil with a carrier oil to your hair care products to boost the effect of the product. Like I have said no product is a miracle product, they just help you on your way and these added oils should help. So this is part one of, well I don't know how many parts there are quite a few essential oils and not nearly as many carrier oils, so I will try to stick with the most popular or well known ones but I may add more essential oils as they interest me.

Lavender Oil
  • has recently been implicated in gynecomastia, the abnormal development of breasts in young boys, However, that gynecomastia actually was caused by the essential oils in the products used by the three boys are currently being disputed by the Natural Artisan Perfumers Guild and Cropwatch on the claimed basis of insufficient evidence (Side note: This was a study of 3 boys...3, most studies contain a large variety of people. The reason for this is so that you can have a control group and a test group. Most studies are double blind so that the results won't be skewed in either direction. I would not consider this a study but rather a case where 3 boys had the same symptoms and were treated successfully by the removal of any products that contain Lavender or Tea Tree Oil. That does not necessarily mean that these products caused there situation and no follow up results were taken from the boys. All had either used lavender-scented soap and skin lotions, or shampoos or styling products that contained tea tree oil and lavender oil as ingredients)
  • effective in treating the problem of hair loss
  • treats a variety of hair problems including alopecia
  • enhances blood circulation, hence a scalp massage will definitely help improve hair growth
  • Can reduce itchy scalp and dandruff

Grape Seed Oil
  • grape seed oil leaves a glossy film over the skin
  •  It contains more linoleic acid than many other carrier oils (Side Note: deficiency in linoleic acid can result in symptoms such as hair fall and dry hair. Can help support cell health) 
  • contains small amounts of Vitamin E but not as much as Safflower Oil, Cottonseed Oil or rice bran oil
  • can help add shine and moisture to your hair
  • has a light non greasy texture
  • absorbed by hair quickly
  • When grape seed oil is used as a carrier oil by diluting it with other essential oils it moisturizes and nourishes the hair making it soft and manageable
  • heating grape seed oil and applying it to the scalp and hair ends greatly helps to make hair shiny, reducing brittleness
  •  smooths the hair cuticles, sealing in the moisture and making each hair strand strong
So can I say OMG! Grape seed oil sounds fantastic. From what I gather it is the only carrier oil that someone hasn't said is bad in some way. I knew I wanted to try it because I Megz (From youtube) uses it. It's a light oil that seems perfect for sealing your hair and to extend an essential oil. As for Lavender oil, I don't really think it's for me. It has some nice benefits but they are pretty much the same as some other ingredients. From what I can tell the best benefit is increased blood flow which is also caused by Eucalyptus oil.

Stay turned for the next part. Let's talk Oils! Part 3: Essential Oil: Peppermint and Carrier Oil: Jojoba

Thursday, December 23, 2010

The truth about sulfates

December 23, 2010

Hello, Hello!

So "The Truth about Sodium Laureth Sulfate", is really my truth about sulfates as I see it because, your truth might be completely different. You might have a totally different experience with sulfates and that will be your truth. Shampooing removes dirt oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles. The goal is to remove the unwanted build-up without stripping out so much sebum.

Have we talked about Sebum? Well, it's the naturally produced oil by our scalp. It is very thick and coats your scalp and hair which is good for your hair and you should naturally produce only just enough sebrum. However outside factors effect the production of sebrum. One of these factors is shampooing your hair. The whole purpose of shampooing your hair is to remove build up, but we don't want to remove to much of our naturally occurring sebum and we also don't want to over stimulate the glades, which will make the glades go into over production.

Different types of sulfates generally act as a detergent and as such help to remove oil and grease from your hair and scalp. What is what? What on earth do you call it Sodium Lauryl, Laureth? Ammounium?! There is Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laurilsulfate or sodium dodecyl sulfate which shouldn't be confused with Sodium laureth sulfate, or sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) or Ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS).Well, let's stick with the two we recognize or see most often and we will call it SLS, SLES and ALS. (There were so many different types however that I am lumping them all together.)

The facts! (Or as close as I can get to it)

What is SLS? It is a surfactant detergent that is very effective as a foaming and thickening agent research shows that it is NOT a carcinogenic and that it can be a skin irritant.

What is SLES?  It is also a surfactant detergent that is also effective as a foaming and thickening agent and research DOES show that it can contain low levels of carcinogen however per the FDA the levels should be monitored but should be safe in the low quantities used in beauty products.

What is ALS? It is also a surfactant detergent and foaming agent.

What do people say about Sulfates? SLS, SLES and ALS are used in things like shampoo, toothpaste, as cleaning products. The lather is very effective at cleaning the hair of oil and residue. SLS is more commonly used as it chemically synthesized and cheaper to produce and is found in over 95% of commercially available shampoos. There are sites that say that SLS is an extremely dangerous ingredients in products and that it is corrosive and greedily attacks grease. That SLS penetrated into skin or tissue and has shown long term retention in these areas. It is potentially harmful to skin and hair. Dries skin by stripping the protective lipids from the surface so it can't effectively regulate moisture. Another extremely serious problem is the connection of SLS with nitrate contamination. SLS reacts with many types of ingredients used in skin products and forms nitrosomines. Liver toxicity. The Journal of the American College of Toxicology says that it has “a degenerative effect on the cell membranes because of its protein denaturing properties”. The Journal adds that “high levels of skin penetration may occur at even low use concentration" (These are things I have found said on the web) 

Are Sulfates harsh chemicals used to clean floors, car engines and the like? Why, yes they could be! Sulfates are a detergent and as such it is used in varying concentrations in a wide range of uses. You really wouldn't pour 100% vinegar or lemon juice or even a baking soda and water mixture on your hair because they would eat through your hair. But you would lower the concentration and limit the use of each item as necessary.

We have gotten some good information, but I think the truth is in the pudding. I will leave the possibility of cancer out of all my thoughts on this subject and the reason I am doing this is for a few reasons. First of all, the people who determine if something will cause cancer or not are constantly changing there mind. There is only one thing that I can think of, off the type of my head, that ALL scientist agree on that can cause cancer but I am sure that you could find someone who says it can't. There is such a wide discussion on the risk level of SLS, SLES, ALS or sulfates in general that if you feel that this is a real concern than you should do what is right for you. Secondly, I do not believe it causes cancer by itself in my shampoo and conditioner.

Now for some truth pudding! Before you say get rid of all the sulfates; take a look at your toothpaste or your body wash. Especially the body wash because they usually contain sulfates and I think that's a good clue that you and sulfates don't get along is that if after you have used a sulfate containing item your skin is dry, tight or itchy.

List of Sulfate free shampoos
  • Burt's Bee Shampoo (There are a bunch of them so I will leave it at that)
  • Alberto VO5 Herbal Escapes Moisturizing Shampoo Free me Freesia
  • Jason Hair Moisturizing Conditioner, Sea Kelp
  • Jason Thin-to-Thick Shampoo, Extra Volume
  • Jason Natural Apricot Shampoo
  • Jason Aloe Vera 84% Shampoo
  • Jason Shampoo Apricot Kiwi Volumizing
  • Kiss My Face Obsessively Organic Shampoo, Big Body, Volumizing, Lavender & Chamomile
  • Avalon Shampoo Rosemary
  • Avalon Organics Nourishing Shampoo
  • Medi-Dan Extra Dandruff Treatment Shampoo
  • Hair One Hair Cleanser Conditioner
  • One 'n Only Argan Oil Moisture Repair Shampoo (This one is slightly suspect because of one of the ingredient but I still think it fits in this list)
  • AGEbeautiful Fullness & Body Sulfate-Free Shampoo
  • Sulfate-free Coloresse Rescue Shampoo
  • Silk Elements ColorCare Sulfate Free Shampoo
  • Diamond Shine Volumizing Shampoo (Has silcones)
  • Organix Vanilla Silk Shampoo
  • Organix Coconut Milk Shampoo
  • Organix Tea Tree Mint Shampoo
  • Organix Pomegranate Green Tea Shampoo For Revitalizing Hair
  • L'oreal Paris Everpure Smooth Shampoo, Rosemary Juniper Sulfate-Free Color Care System
  • Thicker Fuller Hair Moisturizing Shampoo
  • TIGI Rockaholic Livin The Dream Sulfate Free Shampoo
  • CHI Ionic Color Protector System 1 Shampoo
  • Alba Hawaiian Coconut Milk Shampoo
  • Alba Hawaiian Mango Moisturizing Shampoo
The list is just a start, I am working on it lol.
**Note: I looked up some specific products because I didn't want it to seem that I ignored them. I could not find a sulfate free shampoo by: Pantene, Herbal Essenes, Paul Mitchell (At least I couldn't find one), Nexxus and Infusium 23. Tresemme had a silicone free but only a lower sulfate shampoo**

Well, I have learned that all sulfate shampoo's are not created equally. There are many different types of sulfates that companies use in products and each of these types have varying concentration or strengths. Also, some shampoo's had the sulfate as the second ingredient! While a few of them had them lower down on the list (and I mean a few!) and some had multiple types of sulfate and were usually back to back. Above I stated that sulfates could or can be a skin irritant and as such I expected to find the dry, flaky or dandruff shampoos to be sulfate free, but to my great surprise NONE of the ones I looked at were sulfate free.

Sulfates oh sulfates why do they cause such contention?! So many rumors and suspect information. Sulfate free is like the big thing, like being Green. Here is what I believe though and what I know. I know that the word shampoo has been around since 1762 and while at that time it related more to massaging your head than the act of putting something on your hair to clean it. This changed in the 1860's and people applied any kind of soap they could find to their hair. The first commercially available shampoo's started to appear around the turn of the 20th century. Which means to me that people have been using the same kind of shampoo I am using for generations and that while sulfates CAN be harsh to your hair I think that there ok by me.

So my plan would be to add a sulfate free shampoo to my mix and put it in my rotation to help maintain my natural sebum levels. I think I would add a sulfate free shampoo to my mid-week wash. I am have been constantly looking for a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner for ages and the search marches on. I do like few of the options above.

I have tried the Hair One Hair Cleanser Conditioner and I do like it. It really doesn't lather but that's ok.
I would like to try:


  • Alba Hawaiian Coconut Milk Shampoo or Alba Hawaiian Mango Moisturizing Shampoo (It is a very green product. No Animal testing, parabeen free (which I don't know if that is good, but I heard it was :), natural ingredients


  • So that's that I guess. From my research I think I would rather take a sulfate over a silicone. A harsh sulfate may dry your hair out a little (but you don't want to use a shampoo that dries your hair anyway) but at least you can fix that. A silicone will block all your corrective actions because they coat your hair. But! But I would use a silicone product if I were going to wash it out that night or next day.

    Have a good one and Happy Holidays!

    Lets Talk Oils! Part 1: Essential Oil: Eucalyptus and Carrier Oil: Avocado

    December 23, 2010

    Hello, Hello, Hello!

    It's been awhile since my last post just because the holidays are here! I am trying to get back in the swing of things so, lets jump right in!

    Doing some research and I wanted to buy some essential oils (An essential oil is a liquid that is generally distilled from leaves, stems, flowers, bark, roots, or other elements of a plant. Essential oils don't really have oily feeling. Essential oils are highly concentrated and a little goes ways)

    I found an an essential oil set on Amazon for $19.95 and it includes: Eucalyptus, Lavender, Lemongrass, Peppermint, Sweet Orange & Tea Tree. Which I think is perfect because I am a still learning and going through my T&E(Trial and Error) stage.

    So from what I gather you want to add an essential oil with a carrier oil to your hair care products to boost the effect of the product. Like I have said no product is a miracle product, they just help you on your way and these added oils should help. So this is part one of, well I don't know how many parts there are quite a few essential oils and not nearly as many carrier oils, so I will try to stick with the most popular or well known ones but I may add more essential oils as they interest me.

    Eucalyptus Oil:
    • Has medicinal properties: Anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, decongestant, antiseptic, analgesic, antiviral, antibacterial and stimulant properties
    • cooling effect to skin or scalp
    • help to get rid of dandruff
    • stimulate blood circulation
    • increase elasticity of hair
    • this oil in its pure form is toxic, if it is ingested or taken internally
    • is pale yellow in color and watery in viscosity
    So Eucalyptus oil should be used with caution and in a diluted form. As with many essential oils, it is a violate substance. Due to it's cooling effects, ability to increase blood flow and elasticity of hair, I would add a few drops to my shampoo because I would be rinsing it out so limiting my exposure.

    Let's move on to a carrier oil. A carrier oil is used to dilute essential oils. They carry the essential oil onto the skin or hair. It should be used as natural and unchanged as possible. Organic oils for the win. Mineral oil is not really a carrier oil because it not absorbed by the skin or hair.

    Avocado Oil:
    • Light texture that makes it easy to soak into the scalp and skin
    • Can help with hair related problems like hair fall, thinning hair and dandruff
    • contains essential nutrients like proteins, vitamins A, D, E and B6, magnesium, copper, iron, amino acids and folic acid (Side note:Folic acid is super good for your hair)
    • natural sunscreen properties
    • better when blended with other oils like almond oil or olive oil
    • natural humectant properties
    So based on these research I might have to do a little T&E and mix a little Eucalyptus in my shampoo and maybe create a deep conditioning treatment or Pre-poo of Avocado Oil, Olive Oil and Shea butter. I want an essential oil in this mix, but that needs more research!

    Stay turned for the next part. Let's talk Oils! Part 2: Essential Oil: Lavender and Carrier Oil: Grape seed