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Monday, October 25, 2010

My Hair journey: This weeks Trial and error

My Hair journey: This weeks Trial and error: "So as you can guess my regimen is a work in progress and while I have learned so much I still haven't gotten a regimen nailed down yet. It's..."

This weeks Trial and error

So as you can guess my regimen is a work in progress and while I have learned so much I still haven't gotten a regimen nailed down yet. It's hard work because I am a little bit of a product junkie in recovery. There are quite a few products that I still want to try and techniques that I am still learning.

Last week I had a semi-successful flexi-rod set. I feel bad there is not a blog about that first one, but look for one in the future. Next week I will be trying a roller set, I would try it this week but I am super broke! So no money for my hair obession this week.

So this week is for Product Trail and Error!

  1. Pre-Conditioned with my mixture, sat with it on for maybe 20 minutes, I lose interest so quickly that was as long as I could stand it.
  2. Shampoo'ed with Vo5 Herbal Balancing shampoo (Added a little Castor Oil and Jojoba oil to it) (Note: This is on the way out, along with the Ion Volumizing Shampoo, I want a rich moisturizing shampoo. I am going to try ProFectiv Mega Growth Shampoo (Light Protein Shampoo) and Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo. I want to alternate between these two.)
  3. Conditioned with Vo5 Moisture Milks (Very nice CHEAP conditioner!)
  4. Deep Conditioned with Fructis Sleek N Shine 3 minute Masque (Note: This product is on it's way out. I like it, but it is not giving me the feeling that I want for my hair. I am going to try Aussie Moist 3 Minute Miracle and add a deep conditioner that I use with heat, under the dryer. I have no idea what that will be yet) I did my thing in the shower with a shower cap on for the 3 minutes.
  5. Rinsed out the Fructis with warm water and used Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Condition and rinsed that out with cold water to seal the hair cuticle.
  6. Spritzed with Proclaim TeaTree Leave-In Conditioner and let my hair air dry. Took freaking forever because my hair is so thick!
  7. After it was dry, I moisturized with ProFectiv Daily Leave-in Strengthener and applied Proclaim glossing heat protectant. Sectioned my hair in 4 and flat ironed it. (Note: I could have skipped the flat iron because I haven't used heat in 3 weeks, since I had my hair trimmed by a crazy lady, and I am 5 weeks post relaxer. I am trying to avoid heat but I had no idea what to do with my hair this week. So I flat ironed it.
Saturday hair pamper days take forever! Next week is going to be a mess because of the roller set which I have not done before.

So for the Trial and Error bit for this week.
I am trying to use Castor Oil on my edges. I did it a few times the week of 14th but was a slacker about it.

10-14-10- This is my left edge. You see how it looks sparse? I want to thicken it up. My hair was still wet here

10-25-10 This is my edge today. Hair is completely dry.

So I did my normal routine and for my edges I applied 3 drops castor oil, 1 drop oil mix and applied to my edge. I will be doing this 3 times a week until my next relaxer and see if I see a difference.

So I had no idea what to do with my hair, so I put it in pigtails and then I had a lightbulb go off! So I used four flexi rods, 2 on each pigtail and I will see how it looks. Will post a pic after the fact and see if I can work it tomorrow.

**Update: This did so little lol. It had a nice full curl but nothing wowish, but I didn't keep them in long. Took it out before my husband got home :) will retry and post results**

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Ingredients! What is in your hair care products

  1. Water
    1. PH Balance: 7(Neutral)
  2. Sodium Laureth Sulfate or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
    1. It is a detergent and surfactant and is very effective as a foaming agent.
    2. It is very effective at dissolving oils and is used in many commerical applications
    3. Depending on the concentration it can be a skin irritant
  3. Cocamide Mea or cocamide monoethanolamine
    1. Is a pale yellow viscous clear to amber liquid, or solid flakes. It can be made from fatty acids in coconut oils, reacted with ethanolamine
    2. Widely used fatty acid of coconut oil. Used as a thickener and foam booster
    3. The safety of Cocamide MEA has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Cocamide MEA was safe for use in rinse-off products and safe at concentrations up to 10% in leave-on products.
    4. Increases foaming capacity and/or stabilizes foam. Cocamide MEA is also used to thicken the  (water) portion of cosmetic and personal care product.
  4. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)
    1.  Is a synthetic surfactant derived from coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine. It is a zwitterionic chemical compound with a quaternary ammonium cation.
    2. Derived from coconut fatty acids, it is known for its mild conditioning properties. It is used as a cleanser agent and as an additive to shampoos and conditioners
    3. It is an organic compound that allows smooth spreading of lotions
    4. It is (coconut based) a mild cleanser. Controls product thickness and acts as a foam booster, stabilizer and anti-irritant
    5. CAPB has been claimed to cause allergic reactions in some users, but a controlled pilot study has found that these cases may represent irritant reactions rather than true allergic reactions
    6. Suspected to be an environmental toxin
  5. Panthenol
    1. Is a humectant, emollient and moisturizer. It binds to the hair shaft readily and is a frequent component of shampoos and hair conditioners (in concentrations of 0.1-1%). It coats the hair and seals its surface, lubricating the hair shaft and making strands appear shiny.
    2. (Vitamin B5) Acts as a penetrating moisturizer. Plumps and moisturizes hair shaft to make it appear thicker, reduces split ends, smoothes skin and strengthens nails
    3. Stimulates skin regeneration and improves the moisture-retention capacity of the skin. Has some anti-inflammatory & anti-itching effect
  6. Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
    1. Abrasive, Absorbent, Binder, Bulking agent, Hair conditioning agent, skin conditioning agent and surfactant
    2. Very Mild protein
    3. Strengthens the hair and provide abrasion resistance, excellent moisturizing & film-forming properties, well absorbed by damaged ends of the hair making it ideal for hair repairing systems
  7. Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
    1. Derived from the beans; provides a smoothing effect to the skin.
    2. Is used for emulsification and texturizing.
    3. Moisture retentive, protective, and sealing films. It adds shine, body, and manageability to hair care products.
    4. Soy Protein increases the ability of the hair and skin to bind moisture and specifically improves the tensile strength of hair. It mitigates damage due to bleaching, perming, and hot combing.
    5. Is substantive to hair and skin. It helps to minimize roughness and chapping of skin caused by dry climates
  8. Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
    1. It is a water-soluble quaternary ammonium derivative of natural guar gum. It imparts conditioning properties.
    2. Improve the ease of combing (Detangling agent)
    3. No adverse side effects and it has been approved for use by the Environmental Working Group.
  9. Disodium EDTA
    1. Has a high affinity to free metal ions, a common pollutant and impurity in many chemical environments, as a chelating agent helps bind the free radicals and impurities, allowing the major ingredients in detergents to work effectively and consistently without excessive "chemical disturbance."
    2. Products regulated by the FDA, levels of disodium EDTA is too low to cause direct harm when products are used as directed. The only time to be ultra aware of disodium EDTA content is in processed foods and beverages
    3. Is used as a preservative, stabilizer and purifying agent to keep formulas free of contamination from tap water. Also helps the topical penetration of active ingredients in skin care.
  10. Sodium Chloride
  11. Methylchloroisothiazolinone
  12. methylisothiazolinone
  13. benzyl salicylate'
  14. hexyl cinnamal
  15. limonene
  16. citric acid
  17. dmdm Hydantoin
  18. Polyquaternium-7
  19. Hydroxpropyl Methylcellulose
  20. Benzyl Benzoate
  21. Linalool
  22. Butylphenyl Methylpopional
  23. Alpha-isomethyl
  24. Ionone
  25. Limonene
  26. Glycerin
  27. Polysorbate 20
  28. Propylene Glycol
  29. tocopheryl Avetate
  30. Ascorbic Acid
  31. niacinamide
  32. Biotin
  33. Cyclopentasilozane
  34. Behenyl Alcohol
  35. Behentrimonium Chloride
  36. Cetearl Alcohol
  37. Cetyl Alcohol
  38. Cyclohexasiloxane
  39. Dimethicone
  40. Amodimethicone
  41. Behentrimonium chloride
  42. Sweet Almond Oil
  43. Fruit Oik
  44. Meadowfoam seed oil
  45. Glycol Stearate
  46. Ceteth-2
  47. Hydroxyethylcellilose
  48. Methylparaben
  49. Propylparaben
  50. Titanium Dioxide
  51. Iron Oxide
  52. Mica
  53. Pokyquaternium-11
  54. Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
  55. Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone
  56. Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
  57. Jojoba Seed Oil

This list is a work in progress. The list of igrendients (Up to 57) is only from 4 products! Please check back for additional items and what they are. If you have any additional information please leave a comment

My Regimen!

This is probably the hardest post because it will constantly change, adapt and morph into a horrible uncontrollable mess of trial and error and maybe a little crying in the bathroom.

So here is my regimen as it is a work in progress:

I know Pre-poo sounds like pre-shampooing but it is more like Pre-conditioning before you wash your hair. Basically you deep condition your hair while it is dry for a certain amount of time before you wash it. I pre-poo an hour before on my wash day.
   -Currently using: A mixture of the 3 moisturizing daily leave-in creams, the neutrogena daily deep conditioner, the Africa's best Herbal Oil and Proclaim 7 natural oil.

Shampoo and Condition
    Shampoo and Condition Hair once a week
    -Currently using: Ion Vitalizing Thickening Shampoo/Conditioner or Vo5 Herbal Escapes Balancing Shampoo/Vo5 Moisture Milk Conditioner or this strange concocution of Proclaim Olive Oil Shampoo with Olive Oil, Castor Oil, Jojoba Oil and some other stuff I threw in there and Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner

Deep Condition
    Deep Condition Hair after each wash
    -Currently using: Fructis Deep Conditioning 3 minute masque Sleek N Shine.
   WIP(Work in Progress)-Add a longer deep conditioning process

Co-Wash Aka Conditioner wash
   Some people like to co-wash their hair in between their regular wash day for various reasons. Working out, excessive sweat etc. When they do this process they use a less expensive conditioner and 'wash' the hair with only water and the conditioner. Shampoo has harsh additivties that will strip the essential and natural oils from your hair. I don't co-wash, I will wash my hair mid-week if I feel my hair is dirty or has excessive product build up. I just don't have the time to do deal with 'puffy' hair every twice a week, especially with me trying to avoid heat, if I have flat ironed my hair the last thing I want to do is ruin that! I also wash my hair, with both shampoo and conditioner if I do a mid-week wash.

Flat Iron:
   Flat Iron once a week if necessary. (Heat seems to be to hair like water is to the Wicked Witch of the West! A very bad thing. Without proper care to much heat can lead to damaged hair with split ends) I am attempting to forgo heat treatments unless I am going out somewhere fancy! I am also exploring more alternatives to bone straight hair. I have not used heat on hair in the past 2 weeks and I am currently sporting my first semi-successful flexi rod set!
   -Currently using: Proclaim Glossing Heat Protectant

    Use a moisturizing product daily (My hair is dry and so I need to use something daily to maintain moisture)
    -Currently using: Profective Mega Growth Break Free Daily Leave in Strengthener or Fructis Daily Leave-in cream Sleek & Shine or Neturogena Triple Moisture Daily Silk Leave-in cream

    Use an essential oil to seal the cuticle of the hair shaft after I moisturize (More on the hair cuticle later!)
    -Currently using: A mixture of Africa's Best Ultimate Herbal Oil, Proclaim Natural 7 Oil, Jojoba oil and a touch of castor oil or Coconut oil.

Protein Treatments
   Your hair is made up of proteins, while the hair is already dead you maybe able to added strength to your hair with proteins. I just recently discovered this and as a results the ends of my hair are pretty trashed and the only help for them is a snip, snip! (I cry a little inside whenever I think of trimming my hair)
   -Currently using: Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstruct twice a month and after I have rinsed out the relaxer but before I have neutralized. (More on relaxer's later.)
   -Also using: Aphogee 2 step Treatment (This is a very 'hard' protein treatment and should be used sparingly) 1 week before relaxer.

   A chemical relaxer is: is a type of lotion or cream which makes hair less curly, and easier to straighten by chemically "relaxing" the natural curls. The active agent is usually a strong alkali although some formulations are based on ammonium thioglycolate instead. The relaxer is applied to the roots of the hair and remains in place for a "cooking" interval, during which it alters the hair's texture by a process of controlled damage to the protein structure. The hair can be significantly weakened by the physical overlap of excessive applications or by a single excessive one, leading to brittleness, breakage, or even widespread alopecia. Sciency enough for you?! I tell you this because a relaxer is a strong chemical that you apply to your hair that can have long lasting consequences and yet we do this process over and over again with no thought as to how it will affect you. Based on the sevority of this act I will save the entirety of this process for a later post please see(Relax the new growth away)
   -Currently using: ProFective Super Relaxer (Trying to stretch my relaxer out to ever 10 weeks instead of 6 to 8 weeks.)

My regimen is a work in process and I am constantly updating, modifying and making it just right for me.
Please see my next blog (This week's Trial)

What have I done to my hair?!

Have you ever asked yourself this question? I have and I still do. When I am fighting breakage, split hairs and dry, crunchy hair I look in the mirror and wonder what am I doing wrong?!

I have tried maybe hundreds of products and still my hair isn't the way I want it. What on earth am I doing wrong?

Well, it turns out I was doing alot wrong! To much heat, using products that had things in it that shouldn't go on your hair, using products inappropriately the list could go on and on. So I had to come up with a game plan.

Step 1: Set up a goal
Healthy hair

So simple right? No! Healthy is hard work. Read on...

Step 2: Identify problem area's
You have to know what your challenges are in order to correct the issues that you have, so here are the issues that I am having:

Hair is dry and sometimes brittle
Split ends

Step 3: Trial and ErrorAnyone who tells you, do this and that and the other and your hair will be perfect is in my opinion crazy! I say this because you are unique. We are all unique. We may have the same issues but we can react to the same product differently.

I am currently trying a number of different products, looking for that elusive 'miracle' product. I actually know that there is no miracle product, but some things are good for your hair and some things are just terrible!
More on Trial and error in my next blog: My regimen!